I came late to Kwanzaa, celebrating it first in the 1980s.

I remember the effect it had on the starry-eyed children present, who watched the ceremony with rapt interest.

Kwanzaa, which runs from the day after Christmas through New Year’s, uses Swahili as its language.

Jessica B. Harris’s Kwanza Table with Pecan-Coated Pork Loin Roast and Any-Season Succotash

Credit: Victor Protasio; Food Styling: Emily Nabors Hall; Prop Styling: Audrey Davis

I led Kwanzaa ceremonies for almost two decades at the university where I taught.

There was always a groaning board buffet that was loaded with foods from the African diaspora.

The Seven Nights

The meaning behind the holiday, from Harris' bookA Kwanzaa Keepsake.